White Sand

There are things you always say you’re going to do, and something always intervenes.

Every time I drive north towards Taos from Velarde I tell myself I really must pull over on the way back and look. Fallen lava boulders litter the right shoulder as you rise. By necessity, the turn offs are all on the other side. The road has too many blind spots to simply cross over.

But then, when you’re coming home, you’re, well, coming home. It’s a different mental state. There’s never time to pull over.

Well, I finally did it. When I was coming back from the Dixon area a few weeks ago, I pulled over in some of the places between Embudo and Velarde where the rift is narrow, the Rio Grande close to the road.

The look up towards Taos isn’t quite as dramatic as it was when I was driving north - but then it’s like the drive down La Bajada Hill - there are no turn offs when the rocks are the most menacing. The turn offs are only where there’s room, which, by definition, is not where it’s most exciting. Perspective is different from fifty feet across the road.

The river turns out to look like a river there, like any river anywhere in the country where water actually flows and doesn’t simply ripple around sand islands as it does in Española. Nice, unusual actually for New Mexico, but conventional still the same.

Then there’s the unexpected, the thing you didn’t know was there because you never stopped.

In this case, there was a patch of white sand near the river with Russian thistles and purple asters. You think, wait a minute, white sand? New Mexico?

The White Sands in the Tularosa Valley are gypsum dunes. This glittered in the sun. It had to be ground quartz, which of course is as much silica as sand. In fact ground pure quartz provided the material for Venetian glass makers.

Quartz has the greatest weather resistence of any of the rocks in the area. It’s often the last remaining eroded rock from the Sangre de Cristo. This “dune” looks suspiciously like how that sedimentary grey rock I saw earlier in the day beyond Dixon would look if everything soft disappeared and left only the quartz and shining mica. And it photographs the same way, too brown and out of focus, or all glare.

I Am Not a Camera

The sun’s rising later. It’s dark when I wake at six. Instead of getting up, I check the heated mattress pad is still connected and snuggle back in. It’s the best time for unstructured thinking.

Some people have everything organized. Before they go on a trip, they’ve read the guidebooks, have an itinerary, know what to expect. Perhaps they’re anxious they’ll never get another chance, that this is their one opportunity and they can’t afford to blow it.

I haven’t classed them yet as a separate species, but it’s a possibility.

Or maybe I should be thankful my mother was too intimidated by Spock and Freud to do anything serious about toilet training.

I learned long ago there’s no place in this country I can’t return to. That doesn’t mean things won’t change. Some evenings clouds are so special I wish could remember them. But there’s always the possibility for something wonderful some other night, some other summer.

The freedom of retirement is that time constraints are gone. If I didn’t get quite the picture I wanted Saturday I can drive back today. Or will be able to soon. Please let that woman who interviewed for the job yesterday come to terms with my boss.

A camera matters if you’re not blessed with a painter’s imagination and skills. I may not be able to recall those clouds, but it should remind me.

And so, this morning as I lay in bed I returned to the problem of photographing rocks that apparently send no signals digital equipment can recognize. I thought maybe I should simply take a picture of the same section of that rock with each light setting on the new camera to see the differences.

Maybe tonight.

This morning there was more light coming through the kitchen window and camera settings made do difference. The rock was determined to be brown and out of focus.

I took out the other camera, the close up one, which is turning out to be much more difficult to learn than I expected. It rarely gives me what I want when I first try, but always teases me with possibilities. It makes clear, it’s always my fault it doesn’t do what’s expected.

It folds in half, so it can be set it on its base in a V or triangle to take pictures. However, the lens is at an angle to the flat rock and gets blinded by reflecting light. I tried standing it on its end in a great U so the lens was perpendicular to the rock and things got better.

Then I decided to take a wet paper towel and wash the rock in a few places. As a child I learned it was worth while washing quartz, but useless if not dangerous with sandstone. The idea of washing a sedimentary rock is quite alien.

However, I discovered the wet rock photographed better than the dry one. Perhaps the water plays with the lens so the light reflects differently. It was finally possible to see the bits of mica and the flakes of quartz, though the focus was still fuzzy, the glints bright blurs, and the light glaring.

I have no choice but to master these cameras - a new one won’t be better, just different. But I curse them a lot, because throwing them across the room would, contrary to most rules of punishment, actually hurt them more than me.

Please, I beg them, if you can’t see what I see, can’t you please show me something better?

Tell me, is that pebbly surface of dark carbon and white silica something the land looked like before it hardened into rock? Can you show me the past?

How Hard Can It Be

How hard can it be to photograph a rock?

It’s not a child or an animal. It doesn’t move.

It’s not a plant. It doesn’t defensively reflect light.

How hard can it be?

The answer turns out to be, how hard can it be to photograph something no engineer cares about?

I had picked up a piece of that gray fallen rock on the road to Picuris to take to the Rock Queen to see if she knows if it’s shale or not. It is sedimentary, contains some quartz and mica, and crumbles a bit.

My old trusty camera took reasonable pictures, but not with any great detail. The quartz, or what I assume is quartz, appears as white blurs.

My first attempts with the new camera used default settings which let in too much light. I hadn’t washed the rock, and it picked up the browns. It looks more like sandstone than anything.

After I tried again with different light settings, the color was better but much too dark. In some cases it was possible to get some sense of surface detail, but not much. It looks more like an old piece of bark than a rock.

I tried another camera someone had advertised as good for closeups including rocks. I hadn’t noticed the dead leaf until the camera caught it. Unfortunately, lighting is still a problem. The reflective quartz washes out the surrounding color.

I’m serious. How hard can it be to take a picture of a rock?

You get to an age when it no longer matters if a challenge makes sense, so long as you can meet it.

So, how long will it take me to turn a mute, mutant, mutinous piece of digital equipment into something useful?

Between Dixon and Picuris

Now that I have a new camera I have to test it.

My usual method for day tripping has been to look at the map, find something that looks interesting, load the ice chest, and start driving.

There is nothing that can repeat the absolute surprise you feel when you come upon something like the Abiquiu Dam when you’re not expecting it and nothing you want to do to deaden that heart-stopping awe, that sense of unity with all the explorers from the stone age to the present who’ve been there before.

When I get home, I start to read about the place I’ve just been. Then when I go back, I have some better ideas what to look for and some idea about where it’s safe to pull off the road.

Saturday, I took the new camera back to that road beyond Dixon where I had problems with my tires earlier this summer.

After NM 75 leaves Dixon, it feels very much like a typical mountain road with the Rio Embudo on the right side, an occasional gorge coming down from the left, and continually opening V’s as the road climbs towards the Sangre de Cristo south of the Picuris mountains. The trees are all still juniper, but closer together than they were below.

Then I came to a section where raw rock was exposed, standing on edge. It looked like shale at the Rio Grande end, then layers of sandstone. However, they seemed so weathered they had no distinct colors, and I’m not sure I even know what shale looks like, other than it’s gray.

My first thought was, why on earth did anyone go to the expense of blasting a road through here. This is New Mexico, where they didn’t widen the road to Los Alamos until after I moved here. Route 75 was described as “a graded dirt road” in the 1930's WPA Guide when the road that came up from Chimayó through Truches and Las Trampas could get you to Picurus pueblo and Peñasco.

I spent yesterday learning absolutely nothing.

The Española Basin, which tilts west down to the Rio Grande, ends at Velarde. The San Luis Basin, which tilts east, begins farther north. Between the two lies a diagonal belt of disruption that goes from the Picuris mountains to the northeast through the Embudo Fault across the peninsula between the Chama and Rio Grande rivers toward the opening into Santa Clara Canyon.

I presume I was somewhere on the edge of that fault, but can get no confirmation. Is this what a fault looks like?